Kart Tyres: the Complete Guide to Brands, Compounds and How to Choose
The first time you walk up to a kart and look at the tyres stacked on the ground in the paddock, they all look the same. Black, round tyres, more or less worn.
Then you start hearing the conversations around you: "Shall we fit the XM4?" "No, in this heat the XH4 is better." "But he's on Mojos, not Vegas." And you realise there is a whole world of differences you cannot see at first glance.
In this article we explain everything you need to know about kart tyres: not to become a track engineer, but to understand what you are sitting on and why it matters so much.
In short Kart tyres differ by compound, softer or harder, and between slicks and wets; each class has its own tyre. Below 15 °C a soft compound is better, above 25 °C the hard one holds up better. On the Rotax, Mojo tyres are used: D5, D2XX, C2 and, in the wet, W5 and CW.
Why the tyre is the most important component of the kart
A kart has no shock absorbers. It has no suspension. The only thing between the chassis and the tarmac is four tyres.
This means the tyre does everything that, on a normal car, the suspension, the tyres and partly the brakes do together: it absorbs the bumps in the tarmac, transmits drive out of the corner, generates grip under braking, and balances the kart’s behaviour.
A cold, used, badly inflated tyre, or simply the wrong one for the day’s conditions, makes you lose tenths per lap that no chassis change can recover. Before touching the axle or adjusting the caster, the tyre must be the right one and in the right condition.
How to read a kart tyre
When you look at a kart tyre, the information you need is written directly on the sidewall. Learn to read it and you will never be lost in the pits again.
The brand: the tyre manufacturer. Mojo, Vega, MG, LeCont, Maxxis. Each brand has its own construction philosophy, its own range of models and its own character on track.
The model: the specific line within the manufacturer’s range. For example, Vega makes both the XM4 and the XH4: same manufacturer, different characteristics.
The compound: how "soft" or "hard" the rubber compound is. It is the most important variable for performance: we look at it in detail shortly.
The size: expressed in a format such as 10×4.50-5 (front) or 11×7.10-5 (rear). The first number is the tyre’s outer diameter in inches, the second the width in inches, the third the rim diameter. Kart tyres fit 5-inch rims.
Prime / Option: two terms you often hear at races. They are the two official compounds in CIK-FIA terminology: Prime is the base compound (usually medium), Option is the alternative one (usually harder). If you do not race in a championship it does not affect you directly, but now you know what it means when you hear it.
The five kart tyre manufacturers
In world karting there are five main brands active today. Each has a different history, a different product range and a different positioning. Here they are.
Mojo: the tyre of the Rotax world
Mojo was born in 2006 as a direct project of BRP-Rotax, the Austrian maker of Rotax MAX engines. That is no coincidence: Mojo is developed in synergy with the engine it is designed for.
If you go out on track with a Rotax engine (Senior MAX, Junior MAX, Mini MAX or DD2), you almost certainly run Mojo: it is the tyre of the Rotax MAX Challenge and is sold in over 50 countries.
The Mojo dry range has three models, each dedicated to a specific age group and class:
C2: CIK-FIA "Mini" homologation, for the Micro MAX and Mini MAX classes (the youngest drivers).
D2XX: CIK-FIA "Option" homologation, for the Junior MAX.
D5: CIK-FIA "Prime" homologation, for the Senior MAX, Masters and DD2. It is the most widespread model, the one you almost always find in Italian Rotax paddocks.
For the rain: W5 for Junior, Senior and DD2 (1.00 ±0.10 bar cold). For Micro and Mini MAX the CW is used instead (0.85 ±0.15 bar cold).
One Mojo peculiarity compared with the other brands: there are no hard/soft compounds to choose from. A single compound per class: everyone equal, maximum uniformity of competition.
D5 sizes: front 10×4.50-5 / rear 11×7.10-5
📊 Cold pressure, before going out on track: D5 0.60 bar ±0.05; D2XX 0.65 bar ±0.05; C2 0.85 bar ±0.05.
Vega: Italian, for KZ and more
Vega was born in Saronno in 1980 and is one of the historic brands of Italian karting. In Italy it is the control tyre of KZ2 (XM4 Prime, W6 wet), KZN (SL4, W6 wet) and the Mini classes such as 60 Minikart and X30 Mini (MINI, WM1 wet). In 2026 it is also a supplier to the WSK series.
The dry range is divided into two main compounds:
XM4 (white label): medium compound, CIK-FIA "Prime" homologation. The base, most versatile, good in most conditions.
XH4 (green label): hard compound, CIK-FIA "Option" homologation. It comes up to temperature more slowly, but copes better with high temperatures and long sessions.
SL4 (red label): the Vega you find most often in Italian paddocks. It is not CIK-FIA homologated but is the reference choice for national use, clubs and free practice: easy to drive at any level of experience, it delivers over 300 km of life with consistent grip.
M1 (red label, mini size): CIK-FIA homologation for the Mini classes and the youngest drivers.
W6: CIK-FIA homologated wet tyre (for the Mini classes there is the WM1).
Sizes: front 10×4.60-5 / rear 11×7.10-5
📊 Reference pressure: XM4 0.55 bar ±0.2; SL4 0.56 bar ±0.2, front and rear.
MG Tires: the tyre of the entry-level classes
MG was born in 1989 in Brazil. In Italy it is the control tyre of OK-N, OK-N Junior and OK-N Master (SH2 Option, SW2 wet) and of Mini Gr.3 (SC2, SCW2 wet).
The MG range you come across most often:
SH2 (red label): hard compound, CIK-FIA "Option" homologation. It is the tyre of the OKN and OKN Junior races of the ACI Karting Italian Championship, designed to last and to deliver consistent performance in variable conditions.
SM2 (yellow label): medium compound, CIK-FIA "Prime" homologation, softer than the SH2. More grip in cold conditions or on tracks that struggle to warm the tyres.
SW2: CIK-FIA homologated wet tyre.
SC2: a tyre specific to the Mini classes, CIK-FIA homologated (in the ACI Italian Championship it is the tyre of Mini Gr.3).
📊 Reference pressure, measured hot: SM2 0.80 bar ±0.20; SH2 1.00 bar ±0.20. Note: for MG the reference is hot (tyre already up to temperature), while for Mojo it is cold.
LeCont: the second Italian excellence
LeCont was born in Rovereto in 1993. It is less known to the general public, but those who follow racing know it well: in 2026 it supplies the WSK series together with Vega, and in 2025 it supplied the FIA KZ races.
The main models:
LPM: dry slick, medium compound, CIK-FIA "Prime" homologation. For the OK and KZ classes in racing.
LOH: dry slick, hard compound, CIK-FIA "Option" homologation. The alternative to the LPM for hot conditions or abrasive tracks.
OT: dry slick, soft compound, not CIK-FIA homologated. For the OK, KZ and KZ2 classes: maximum grip without homologation constraints.
LMK: slick with CIK-FIA "Mini" homologation, for the young classes.
LWR: CIK-FIA homologated wet tyre (standard).
LMW: CIK-FIA homologated wet tyre for the Mini class.
LeCont also makes the LeVanto brand: same Rovereto factory, same technology, but designed for the ROK Cup. The LeVanto KRT model is the official tyre of all ROK classes (Mini, Junior, Senior, Shifter).
LeCont is appreciated by professional teams for the consistency of its performance over several consecutive sessions: an important quality when you have to do 3-4 runs in a test day.
📊 Manufacturer’s suggested pressure (LeCont): LeCont does not publish a general recommended pressure: guidance is given to teams race by race.
Maxxis: the tyre of the FIA World Championships
Maxxis is Taiwanese, part of the Cheng Shin Rubber group. In karting it came to prominence in 2024 when the FIA named it exclusive supplier for the World and European Championships in the OK and OK Junior classes for the 2024-2026 period.
It is not the tyre you find at the circuit on a Saturday morning: it is the World Championship tyre. But if one day your goal is to reach that level, knowing it exists gives you the right perspective.
2026 models: the MA01 Prime slick for the OK European Championship, the MA01 Option slick for the OK-N World Cup, and the MW11/MW12 for the rain.
📊 Manufacturer’s suggested pressure (Maxxis): the official data are communicated to teams through the race technical briefings. No specifications published by the manufacturer for general use are available.
A note on Bridgestone
For decades Bridgestone was one of the most important brands in international karting, with models such as the YNB (CIK-FIA "Prime" homologated for KZ and TAG 125). In September 2020 it announced its definitive exit from the kart tyre market, effective from 31 December 2022.
You might still find Bridgestone tyres around the pits, but they are no longer made. If someone offers you a set, consider their age: a tyre sitting in a warehouse for years may have lost its original properties.
Hard or soft compound: what really changes for you
This is the question almost everyone asks the first time. The answer is simpler than it seems.
A soft compound is made of a more yielding rubber. It warms up quickly, offers high grip from the first laps and is reactive. The downside: it wears faster. On very hot tracks or in long sessions it can "go off" sooner than expected, losing grip just when you need it most.
A hard compound is stiffer. It takes longer to bring up to its optimal working temperature, so the first laps are less sharp. But once warm, it keeps its performance consistent for longer. It is the right choice on hot tracks, abrasive tarmac or long races.
The practical rule for amateurs: if you cannot choose, go for the medium or hard compound. They last better, are more predictable and give you more sessions before you need to change them. The soft is for those who already know how to exploit it; otherwise you risk not feeling the difference in the first 5 minutes and ending up with a tyre worn out too soon.
How to choose tyres for a track day
If you go on track for a free practice day, a course or an Arrive & Drive, the tyres are fitted for you. But if you have your own kart, these are the variables that matter.
Air temperature. Below 15°C a soft compound is almost essential: the hard one struggles to warm up and never gives you full grip. Above 25°C the hard one holds up better and you do not risk wearing it out in a few laps.
Type of track. Short tracks with lots of direction changes warm the tyres faster: you can afford a hard. Fast, flowing tracks struggle to generate heat: a soft or medium is better.
How many sessions you have. If you have 4-5 runs planned, a hard lasts longer. If you have only one session and want maximum grip straight away, the soft makes sense.
Pressure. Every tyre has a pressure range recommended by the manufacturer: the values vary significantly by brand and compound (you will find them in each manufacturer’s section above). One important thing: some manufacturers, such as MG, give pressures hot (tyre already up to temperature), others such as Mojo give them cold. The basic rule: measure cold before going out, measure hot as soon as you come back in, and from that difference you understand whether you are in the right range.
How to recognise a worn kart tyre: the wear holes
Here there is an important difference from normal road tyres.
Road tyres have the classic wear indicators: small ridges at the bottom of the grooves that appear when the tread is worn out. Kart tyres, on the other hand, are slicks: a completely smooth surface, with no grooves. So how do you know when they are finished?
The answer is the wear holes: small cylindrical holes made in the tread by the manufacturer, to a precise depth. As long as the holes are visible, the tyre still has rubber left. When the holes disappear, the tread has worn down to their depth: the tyre needs changing.
It is a simple, effective system: you do not need a gauge or to remove the tyre. Just look at it. If the holes are still there, you go on track. If they have gone, it is time to replace it.
A further visual indication: look at the tyre’s profile from the side. A new or little-used tyre has a round, domed cross-section. A very worn tyre tends to look more "square", with worn shoulders and a flattened profile. This deformation reduces the optimal contact patch and worsens cornering behaviour.
How to store kart tyres
A kart tyre can cost you from 30 to 70 euros each. It is worth treating it well between one session and the next.
Light and heat are the main enemies. Rubber is sensitive to UV rays and ozone: left exposed to the sun on the car bonnet or in a hot garage for months, it ages before it is even used. It hardens, loses elasticity and does not give you the performance you expect when you fit it. Keep them in closed black bags, away from direct light and heat sources.
Before fitting them, check the sidewall. If you see superficial micro-cracks or the tyre seems unusually stiff compared with a new one of the same model, it has aged. Do not trust it.
Between one day and the next. Removing the tyres from the kart for transport and storage is good practice: it stops them staying compressed on the same spot for weeks.
One thing to remember
If you take home just one concept from this article, it is this: in karting the tyre is not an accessory: it is the setup. Before any mechanical adjustment, the right tyre in the right conditions makes the biggest difference to your lap time.
As for the rest (brand, model, compound), if you race in an organised championship the regulations tell you. If you go to free practice, ask whoever runs the karts: they already know which tyre works best on that track in that season.
Frequently asked questions about kart tyres
How do I know when a kart tyre is worn?
Kart slicks do not have grooves like road tyres, so they do not have the classic wear indicators. Instead there are small holes made in the tread: as long as they are visible the tyre still has life, when they disappear it is time to change it. Also look at the profile: a very worn tyre becomes "square" instead of round, a sign that the contact patch is no longer optimal. At TKS RaceLab we assess the tyres before every Arrive & Drive session.
How many kart tyres are there? Are they all the same?
No, they are very different. There are five main manufacturers active today (Mojo, Vega, MG, LeCont, Maxxis), each with several models and at least two different compounds (hard and soft), plus wet versions. In practice there are dozens of combinations, but in most practical situations you use one or two at most. In our shop you will find the Mojo D5 (Senior MAX and DD2), D2XX (Junior MAX), C2 (Micro and Mini MAX) and W5 (wet).
Can I fit any tyre to my kart?
Broadly yes, as long as it respects the standard sizes (10×4.50-5 or 10×4.60-5 front, 11×7.10-5 rear in the standard classes). If you race in a championship, the tyre is often set by the regulations. In free practice you are free to choose among the CIK-FIA homologated models compatible with your kart. In Arrive & Drive we only use Mojo tyres, those of the Rotax MAX Challenge.
What is the difference between a Prime and an Option tyre?
They are the two official CIK-FIA designations for slick compounds. Prime is generally the medium compound (the base), Option is the alternative one, often harder. In Arrive & Drive we only use Mojo D5 tyres, Prime homologated.
How do I know which compound to choose for my track day?
The main variables are air temperature and session length. Below 15°C or in short sessions, a soft compound warms up sooner and gives immediate grip. Above 25°C or in long sessions, the hard compound lasts better and does not wear too quickly. If in doubt, ask whoever runs the track. In our shop you will find the Mojo D5 (Senior MAX and DD2), D2XX (Junior MAX), C2 (Micro and Mini MAX) and W5 (wet).
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👉 You will find Mojo tyres in our shop: D5 (Senior MAX and DD2), D2XX (Junior MAX), C2 (Micro and Mini MAX) and W5 (wet).
Conclusion
Kart tyres are not all the same, and now you know it. Five active manufacturers, dozens of models, hard and soft compounds, wet versions, wear holes that disappear when it is time to change them: a world that seems complicated but follows a simple logic once you have understood it.
The most important thing: you do not need to become a tyre expert to become a better karter. You need to understand what you have underneath you and why it reacts in a certain way. The rest comes with experience on track.
If you are still deciding whether to start, first read our guide on how to start karting. If you are already on track and want to understand setup better, move on to how to choose the right axle.
Technical data: official Mojo (BRP-Rotax), Vega and MG data sheets; ACI Karting 2026 technical regulations and FIA Karting 2026 regulations.
Questions about this topic?
Message us on WhatsApp: we answer personally, with the experience of people who live at the track. And if you want to drive a real racing kart, with Arrive & Drive you get into one of ours, ready on track. The right spare part? You will find it in the shop.
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Read also: Kart axles: complete guide to choice, setup and replacement → · Kart wheels: complete guide to materials, sizes and choice → · How to start karting: complete beginner’s guide → · Mojo D5 and D2XX tyres: management and wear → · Kart maintenance: complete guide → · Kart geometry: complete guide →
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Author: Sergio, TKS RaceLab | Published: 9 June 2026 | Updated: 4 October 2026
TKS RaceLab is the Italian online store dedicated to karting: spare parts, accessories and everything you need to get on track. With Arrive & Drive you arrive at South Garda Karting (Lonato), Franciacorta, Cremona or Ala and find your kart ready to go. No hassle, just driving.
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